Lowcountry native son Jeremiah Bacon—whose résumé contains stints at Le Bernardin and Per Se—has put a farm-to-stable spin on this chophouse in a historic Savings & Loan. Local shellfish makes an appearance in dishes like clams on line casino and shrimp and lobster mac and cheese, while regional Bibb lettuce replaces iceberg in a traditional wedge salad. Start with the French toast–like bone marrow pudding, and go for a traditional reduce, just like the New York strip, which arrives still sizzling. In 1972, Calvin Trillin put this family-owned grill, a 30-minute drive from downtown Kansas City, on the map when he touted it in Playboy as one of the nation’s best steakhouses. The two-inch-thick, 25-ounce sirloin, which is identified as after the journal and delivered nicely charred and sizzling, nonetheless lives up to that hype.
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